Blog - 11 Charara

Blog - 11 Charara
We were met by Rod and Sonia with their daughter Kaylie who unfortunately had been waiting since 07h00 our anticipated arrival time. Theey had passed 2 ellephant on way in but  time we returned they had moved on. We travelled around 40 minutes to the Old Harararians site at Charara and settled in with their friends Nick and Sarah  Harrison to await the senior Leaches who arrived with young Brendan Taylor in tow. Graham Leach spent part of the journey travelling in the back of the "bakkie"(ute) on top of the coolboxes and fishing gear as it was a bit squashed with the three of them in the front cab.  Sonia and Rod went off fishing and went for a walk down to launch pad where there were 5 hippos' basking  in the shallows plus a couple of crocs cruising around. The locals reported a recent tragedy where a local african boatman had been taken by a large croc whilst cleaning a boat.

Later in the aftenoon we went out in the two boats for a spot of fishing and we fished by "all species tree" as Elaine called it. We  caught a number of bream, I caught a bottlenose which is an ugly looking things,and a reasonable size Mbiri which we tried to keep alive to put in Graham Leaches aquarium without success. We had a great meal of fried fish and chips with the fish battered with cornflakes mixed with a little garlic. Tasted amazing. An early night all under mosquito nets all 7 of us visitors  lined up on the verandah like an old school dormitory.

We went early in the morning from Charara with all the suitcases and fishing gear, extra food and Graham Leach, Brendan Jelley, Brendon Taylor and Grahame Jelley all perched on top of all the luggae in the back of the bakkie just like a bunch of the local population. Certainly not within New Zealand law and quite a sight as you can imagine. Renene's sharp eyes spotted two kudu on the side of the road  and apart from a few baboons' we did not see anything else. We loaded the houseboat "Silver-Fox" with all our baggage and set off around 10h00.

Blog 10 The ferry

Blog 10 The ferry
We were awakened by the racket of three different phones going off all set to ensure we did not sleep through. Wee were fed with a breakfast far too large for the heat and really were unable to do the chef any justice for his meal prepared in this isolated part of the country. Obtaining supplies here is a mission and they have to travel to Hwange for any major supplies. The bottle store supplies castel and lion lager and the local sourgum beer Chibuku only. The local store is limited to basics such as rice sugar and soaps according to the proprieter.

 

We were second to arrive at the ferry and had to pay a national parks (DOC) fee of $5 for locals and $10 for international travellers. Renene and I have our Zimbabwe identity documents but they would not accept the kids birth certificates so we paind for them as internationals. The ferry is quite comfortable and we watched as the various vehicles were loaded. We left around 09h00 and the initial part of the journey is in the river itself and was flat calm. There is a predominant white clientelle and a mix of  nationalities. There is a large wedding party of young people from Sweden ,Uk and a Zimbabwe groom and swedish bride and they are all travellin together on a great holiday adventure. We have met up with a family similar to ours . Zimbabwe born but now living in Cambridge ,Waikato New Zealand . It has been interesting hearing their stories and turns out they were travelling with their sister Rachel Hitchcock now Rous, who was also in the polo x crowd we knew in Chiredzi days. Been good to hear from further Zimbabweans who have managed to hang in and survive here. Rachel and her husband are living in Chinoi and are growing wheat, maize and bananas leasing back land that had been taken from them previously. They are friends with the Dilmitis family who were friends of my brother Keith at University. There have been lots of interesting people to chat to on the deck and hearing all the different stories paints a vivid picture with all the varying experiences.

 

 

 

We had a little bit of a sloppy wave as we travelled to the narrows and again through the night at Sengwa basin. We had fantastic meals considering the facilities the cooks had  to work with.We did not sleep that well and I was awake at 04h00 on deck waiting for the sun to rise. Unfortunately the clouds had settled in and it did not rise as expected. The weather packed a bit of a "sad" as we approached Kariba and due to the wind and waves we arrived around an hour late.

 

Blog 9 - Mlibizi

Blog 9 - Mlibizi
We had to travel almost a third of the way back to Bulawayo to the Dete junction before turning towards Binga and Mlibizi. Again I was surprised at the general state of the roads which remained excellent with only occassional areas where the surface was breaking down into potholes. The country around us was dry and sparsely vegetated. We crossed the Gwai river which was running strongly and there was evidence in the small tributaries of significant prior water flow though they were now empty.

We arrived mid afternoon at the Manzini Lodge on the banks of the Zambezi. A quaint small accomodation at which we were the only residents.  Thatched roofed rooms built in and around the rocks and which rambled across the hillside . All open plan  with wrought iron as window covers with cane blinds in some of the windows. The sleeping quarters toilet and bath were scattered at differing levels in our room and a large bed covered like a zebra with full curtaine mossie net like a four post bed.

 

 

 

 We took a walk around the gardens and had a sundowner on the verandah before being offered a sunset cruise on the resorts small fishing platform. We saw a large croc of around 14 feet swim lesiurely past the jetty and then we saw a pod of 10 hippos and  numerous illegal fishing nets scattered across the area we transited through. Also men in small boats rowing themselves between their nets. We were out longer than anticipated but the bonus was we came home under a full rising moon which was magnificent to see.













We had a well prepared meal of fishcakes and chicken stirfry and the kids had a special starter made for them as they did not favor the fishcakes. Courtney thought this starter was the best meal she has had this whole holiday.

 We slept early as we needed to be awake at 6 for breakfast at 630 and to be ready for the ferry at 0730.

 

 

Blog 8 - Victoria Falls

Blog 8 - Victoria Falls
Well rested we packed for our trip to Vic falls. Shereen and John popped out for a final visit and gave us a small book of devotions to accompany us on our journey and we shared a short prayer before our departure.

The sun was shining for the first time in four days so we enjoyed its warmth as we travelled through the middle of Bulawayo. We were surprised to see three mounted horsemen riding through the city centre and presume they were an attachment of the Grey Scouts under whatever name they may operate now. We were  exposed to 4 police road blocks within 10 km of the city boundaries and for the first time were required to pay a US$20 fine as I was driving with my headlights and my driving lights on which were regarded as fog lamps. We travelled on with the weather becoming hotter and drier as we neared Hwange. We stopped off at the Hwange Safari lodge for lunch of toasted chicken mayo and watch a number of impala and eventually some Zebra making their way to the waterhole. Also a bunch of Maribou storks.

 We then went to a wild dog sanctuary where there is a research team and a rehabilitation unit and were abe to see two of the Painted dogs. One old man who is unable to survive independently and one young pup that had broken its leg but was now gaining its strength before release.

We travelled on to Vic falls passing a further 4  or 5 police stops and it took us a lot longer then we imagined. The road was in reasonable repair and we had no hassles. Amazing to see a huge new international airport terminal being constructed at Vic Falls airport. We found our new accomodation in a private home up on a ridge looking down onto the river in the distance and across to Zambia. The pool was cooler than expected but most welcome relief after a hot day in the car. Sitting on the veranda we could hear the falls rumbling in the distance.

 

We slept in a huge 4 poster bed with a mosquito net surrounding the bed . A huge house with three bedrooms and 2 toilets in one wing and Courtney slept in a seperate wing with her own bathroom . Upstairs there was a further huge dormitory like accomodation. We rose early and after a quick breakfast made our way to the Victoria Falls .On our way we were surprised to see a whole group of warthogs browzing at the grass verge alongside the petrol station.

 I supposed we should not have been that surprised considering the stories of a whole herd of buffalo being chased though Vic Falls town by some lions only 2 weeks before.  It is amazing everytime one visits. A lot of development of the entrance with good information on the history and geological formation. The paths are well established now whereas when Renene and I last visited on our honeymoon they were just bush tracks. Now they are all paved with multiple vantage points to view the various parts of the falls. Livingstone's statue remains in its place undefiled which was good to see.

Devils cataract was flowing strongly and despite a reasonable flow over the main falls we were able to have good views and did not get terribly wet. It was strange though that the rain forest was much more wet on our return trip from the gorge . We viewed the bridge from the gorge and watched one bungy and one swing before returning to the park entrance. There were heaps of vervet monkeys and baboons all along the path back to the entrance and they were not phased by the human presence at all just going about their daily business. Quite a number of younger baboons around as well.

We walked onto the bridge having to pass through customs and Brendan decided he did want to do the Bungy jump. So now all four of the Kiwi Jels have done the Bungy. Renene in France and at Storms River in South Africa, Grahame at Hamner in South Island , New Zealand, Courtney at Taupo, North Island New Zealand and Brendan at Vic falls,Zimbabwe. What an experience he had. All captured on video and still photos for his brag sheet.

 

Feeling seriously hot and bothered now we returned to the house for a swim and recharge of the batteries before going for High Tea at Victoria Falls Hotel. We had been fooled into believing from something we read at the Bridge museum that this would cost $18 for two. Well it turned out at $15 per head and we really weren't able to do it justice as there was just too much for our tummies.

 

 



We planned to go on to have dinner at the Boma which is a african experience restaurant but witth the kids still feeling a little unwell we abandoned that plan and instead went for sundowners at Victoria Falls Safari Lodge overlooking a watering hole. We unfortunately missed the elephants and had to settle for the occassional warthog and impala mixed in with great heron and guineafowl. After a couple of gin and tonics and a beautiful sunset we retired for the night hitting the sack reasonably early.

 

 

We spent the next morning wandering around the few shops and the Elephant walk shopping centre admiring the many curios and the amazing sculpture work in wood , bone and metalwork before hitting the road again for Mlibizi where we are due to catch the ferry up the length of Lake Kariba.

 

 we met with a number of police stops and were persuaded to contribute a further US$10 for incorrect red reflectors on the back of our car. This despite no fault being found with them at the many prior stops we had been exposed too. Well considering the number of stops  must be approaching the 100 mark  fines  and a total of US $30 is probably within reason